The review is terrific. I love a lambasting with style. "Bad taste doesn't begin to describe the revulsion it evokes when you first hold it in your hands," writes Rutten. Brilliant.
I wonder, then, his reaction to the ads that follow the column, under the dateline. You have to read the column for this to make sense. But in case it changes, here's the "Ads by Google" block that follows Rutten's review: